Category Archives: Education

How to Recycle an Old T Shirt Into a Sexy Bikini

Don’t throw that oversized and sloppy old T-shirt out just yet. You can make a bikini out of it! No one else will have one like you. You can go green, get unique, and make your own sexy bikini using basic sewing skills and a pair of scissors. heat transfer for t shirts

1. Find an old T-shirt you don’t plan to wear anymore. Make sure it is in reasonable condition (without holes or stains) and fits you or is somewhat larger than necessary. Don’t worry if it is stretched, faded or old – it is about to be transformed!

  • Avoid using a white T-shirt. Even if you do not get the suit wet, it may be too see-through to wear.

2. Lay the T-shirt out flat. Put it onto a broad, stable surface on which you can cut fabric. If you don’t have a table big enough, lay an old towel out on the floor and put your T-shirt on top of that. (The towel will protect wood flooring or carpet from damage from the scissors).iron on transfers for t shirts

3. Mark the cuts. Using dressmaker’s chalk (or a piece of bar soap), make marks to show where you will cut the T-shirt.

  • Mark the shape for the bottom of the bikini. To mark where the bikini bottom will be cut out, draw an hourglass-type shape in the middle of the shirt. Make sure that you leave enough space between the two curves to adequately cover your crotch, as well as making the two semi-triangles wide and tall enough to fit you. If you don’t feel comfortable eyeballing it, take your measurements. (Remember, you can always cut off more fabric, but you can’t add it back on without a lot of trouble. Mark cautiously.)

4. Cut a square around the hourglass shape. Note that this square cut will not go all the way across the T-shirt – leave a few inches on one side of the shirt (including the seam) intact.

5. Pin the bottom pieces together. Add pins to keep the two cut pieces aligned. Put them inside the hourglass shape you’ve marked.

6. Cut out the hourglass shape.

7. Cut the sleeves off the T-shirt. Include the seams in your cuts – you’ll trim them off later.

8. Remove the remaining long side piece of the T-shirt from the top piece. Your cut should run from the shoulder seam to the bottom hem. NFL logo iron on transfers

Method 1. Sewing the Bikini Bottom

1. Fold over and pin the edges of the bikini bottom. Go all the way around the bikini bottom and fold in by a half-inch (1.7 cm) or inch (2.5 cm). Pin into place.

2. Sew the folded edges together. Because the bikini bottom isn’t a huge garment, you can sew it by hand in a reasonable amount of time, if you want to. However, for a straighter and swifter stitch, use a sewing machine. Remove the pins as you go.

3. Fold the hourglass shape in half, hamburger-style, so that the outside of the bottom is facing inward. That is, you should be able to see the folds and seams you just did.

4. Sew the two sides together. Where the bikini bottom would sit around your waist, sew the two sides above the leg holes together. Turn the garment inside out and try it on to check the fit.

 
Method 2. Sewing the Bikini Top

1. Shape the sleeves. The two sleeves you cut off the T-shirt will constitute the top of the bikini. Cut them into a shape that will fit you and provide adequate coverage.

2. Fold and pin the edges. As you did with the bikini bottom, fold in the edges by about a half-inch or inch (1.7 to 2.5 cm) all the way around, so that you end up with a somewhat triangular shape for each cup. Pin the folds into place.

3. Stitch both pieces. Again, because the pieces of fabric are small, sewing by hand wouldn’t be too laborious. However, you can still use a sewing machine for more speed and accuracy. Remove the pins as you go.

  • At the base of each top piece, sew so that you leave a narrow, hollow space to allow a cord to slip through. Don’t sew up the sides.

4. Cut long strips from the long piece of T-shirt that is left over. Cut one long piece for threading through the base of the top as the back tie, and two shorter ones to form the halter straps that go up around the neck.

5. Again, it’s better to go too long with these pieces than too short. You can always trim the ends later, if necessary.

6. Stitch a shorter halter strap to the top of each top piece.

7. Feed the long, back-tying cord through the bottom of each top piece. Use a large needle to help push this cord through the hollow space.

  • Stitch the bottom of the top pieces to the back-tying cord (optional). If you want to make sure the top pieces stay in place, try the top on and measure where you want each piece to be. Then sew another stitch along the bottom of each top piece, after the back-tying cord is inside. This should lock the cups in place.

8. Try on the bikini and adjust the fit accordingly.

Warnings

  • Be sure to examine your sewing carefully before wearing in public. A poorly attached strap or unfolding bikini pants could make for a very awkward situation.
  • Most T-shirts are made out of lightweight cotton fabric, which typically cannot stand up against swimming.

Things You’ll Need

  • Old T-shirt

  • Scissors

  • Dressmaker’s chalk (or piece of bar soap)

  • Thread

  • Needle

  • Sewing pins

How to Improve the Print Quality of an Inkjet Printer

A wide variety of factors can negatively impact the printing quality of an inkjet printer. Issues with hardware and software malfunctions are common, as are problems with faulty or damaged ink cartridges. Incorrect print speed, color saturation and resolution settings are also common sources of problems related to the print quality of inkjet printers. This article provides information on how to improve the print quality of an inkjet printer.

Method 1. Adjust the Printer Settings to Improve Print Quality

1. Set the print speed setting on the printer to the highest quality setting available. Average print speed settings will range from 5 to 20 pages-per-minute (ppm). The optimum quality speed setting is typically among the speed setting options in the speed adjustment control menu on the printer. iron on transfers for t shirts

  • Increase the print speed to reduce color saturation when images and graphics bleed and warp from over saturation. Decrease the print speed to raise the color saturation when colors seem washed out or faded.

2. Use the highest possible resolution settings on both the printer and the application being used. These settings can usually be adjusted from the “Print” menu or on the printer’s control panel.

  • Choose the highest dots-per-inch (dpi) setting. Depending on the device specifications, the dpi settings will range from 72 to 2400 dpi. The dpi setting will have a dramatic effect on the resolution quality of an inkjet printer.
Method 2. Adhere to General Best Practices to Improve Print Quality

1. Use the highest resolution graphic files possible to improve the image quality of photos or graphics printed from a inkjet printer. The higher the resolution or “dots-per-inch” (dpi) of the original file, the better the quality of the final product.

2. Turn off the printer when the device is not in use. Leaving the printer on will leave the heads unprotected from dust and debris, which can significantly reduce print quality. heat transfer for t shirts

3. Avoid using paper products other than those recommended by the manufacturer. Inkjet printers are calibrated to work with certain types of paper. Using the wrong paper can result in issues related to color saturation. Use manufacturer recommended paper specifications to achieve the best results.

4. Reserve high-quality photo ink cartridges for printing images and graphics, and use standard ink cartridges for regular documents. Clogged or blocked nozzles on the print heads is a common source of issues related to print quality.

  • Protect ink cartridges from dust or damage by storing them in a clean, secure location.
  • Follow the Printer’s Recommended Maintenance Schedule to Improve Print Quality

5. Perform the recommended maintenance on an inkjet printer, as directed by the manufacturer. Blocked nozzles and clogged printer heads are a common source of problems with Inkjet printers, and can significantly compromise print quality.

6. Perform a head cleaning regularly. All inkjet printers have an automatic head-cleaning feature, which typically is accessed from the printer’s control panel.

7. Perform a printer cartridge or head alignment. This feature is also automated on most inkjet printers, and usually can be accessed from the printer’s control panel.

  • Refer to the printer’s user manual or contact customer support for additional instructions on properly scheduled maintenance. Other scheduled maintenance tasks will vary by device.
Method 3. Perform Software and Hardware Upgrades to Improve Printer Quality

1. Confirm that the printer has the latest firmware and driver updates available. Outdated or incorrectly installed printer drivers can reduce the print quality of an inkjet printer.

  • Visit the manufacturer’s website for information on downloading and installing the latest firmware and driver updates available for the device.

2. Consider a memory upgrade for the device. A printer’s RAM has an impact on the print quality of an inkjet printer. Many inkjet printers are manufactured with on-board memory, which can be expanded.

  • Consult the user manual or contact customer support to determine if the inkjet printer’s memory capacity can be increased to further improve the quality of an inkjet printer.

How to Improve the Print Quality of an Inkjet Printer

A wide variety of factors can negatively impact the printing quality of an inkjet printer. Issues with hardware and software malfunctions are common, as are problems with faulty or damaged ink cartridges. Incorrect print speed, color saturation and resolution settings are also common sources of problems related to the print quality of inkjet printers. This article provides information on how to improve the print quality of an inkjet printer.

Method 1. Adjust the Printer Settings to Improve Print Quality

1. Set the print speed setting on the printer to the highest quality setting available. Average print speed settings will range from 5 to 20 pages-per-minute (ppm). The optimum quality speed setting is typically among the speed setting options in the speed adjustment control menu on the printer. iron on transfers for t shirts

  • Increase the print speed to reduce color saturation when images and graphics bleed and warp from over saturation. Decrease the print speed to raise the color saturation when colors seem washed out or faded.

2. Use the highest possible resolution settings on both the printer and the application being used. These settings can usually be adjusted from the “Print” menu or on the printer’s control panel.

  • Choose the highest dots-per-inch (dpi) setting. Depending on the device specifications, the dpi settings will range from 72 to 2400 dpi. The dpi setting will have a dramatic effect on the resolution quality of an inkjet printer.
Method 2. Adhere to General Best Practices to Improve Print Quality

1. Use the highest resolution graphic files possible to improve the image quality of photos or graphics printed from a inkjet printer. The higher the resolution or “dots-per-inch” (dpi) of the original file, the better the quality of the final product.

2. Turn off the printer when the device is not in use. Leaving the printer on will leave the heads unprotected from dust and debris, which can significantly reduce print quality. heat transfer for t shirts

3. Avoid using paper products other than those recommended by the manufacturer. Inkjet printers are calibrated to work with certain types of paper. Using the wrong paper can result in issues related to color saturation. Use manufacturer recommended paper specifications to achieve the best results.

4. Reserve high-quality photo ink cartridges for printing images and graphics, and use standard ink cartridges for regular documents. Clogged or blocked nozzles on the print heads is a common source of issues related to print quality.

  • Protect ink cartridges from dust or damage by storing them in a clean, secure location.
  • Follow the Printer’s Recommended Maintenance Schedule to Improve Print Quality

5. Perform the recommended maintenance on an inkjet printer, as directed by the manufacturer. Blocked nozzles and clogged printer heads are a common source of problems with Inkjet printers, and can significantly compromise print quality.

6. Perform a head cleaning regularly. All inkjet printers have an automatic head-cleaning feature, which typically is accessed from the printer’s control panel.

7. Perform a printer cartridge or head alignment. This feature is also automated on most inkjet printers, and usually can be accessed from the printer’s control panel.

  • Refer to the printer’s user manual or contact customer support for additional instructions on properly scheduled maintenance. Other scheduled maintenance tasks will vary by device.
Method 3. Perform Software and Hardware Upgrades to Improve Printer Quality

1. Confirm that the printer has the latest firmware and driver updates available. Outdated or incorrectly installed printer drivers can reduce the print quality of an inkjet printer.

  • Visit the manufacturer’s website for information on downloading and installing the latest firmware and driver updates available for the device.

2. Consider a memory upgrade for the device. A printer’s RAM has an impact on the print quality of an inkjet printer. Many inkjet printers are manufactured with on-board memory, which can be expanded.

  • Consult the user manual or contact customer support to determine if the inkjet printer’s memory capacity can be increased to further improve the quality of an inkjet printer.

How to Decorate an Entire Wall Without Paint

Are you stuck somewhere you aren’t allowed to paint the walls? Do you not want to deal with the time and the mess? Do you want something that is too complicated to paint or too dark to paint over when you move? This tutorial will give you the guidelines to decorate your entire wall using fabric instead of paint or wallpaper!

1. Find out exactly how far it is from the ceiling to the floor of the wall you want to cover, and how wide side to side. The inch measurement here will likely be close but not exactly what the room is measured at on your floor plan. Write this information down to use later.

2. Browse your local fabric stores or online and find a pattern of fabric that you like. Upholstery weight fabric is good for this project, although lighter fabric could possibly work. Don’t pick something too heavy, faux fur or leather aside from being insanely expensive are likely too heavy for this project. custom NHL decals stickers

3. Remember that while this is easier to put up than paint, it’s more expensive and you won’t be changing it very often. Be choosy, pick something you know; you will like for a while! All rules about good taste, tackiness, and matching your decoration apply here.

4. Figure out how wide the fabric is. Wider is better in this case so if you are torn between two designs, choose the wider one. Now, figure out how many “widths” of fabric it will take to add up to the height of your wall plus 2 inches (5.1 cm) at the top, 2 inches (5.1 cm) at the bottom, and an inch for every seam that will have to be sewn. For 2 widths- 5 inches (12.7 cm). For 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm). The width of your wall * how many widths you just calculated will be the length of fabric you will need. If you are trying to match a pattern or stripes so they line up, you will need extra (how much you may want to ask a sewing friend for help if you can’t figure out yourself – it will vary depending on the pattern in your fabric). Add about 12 inches (30.5 cm) to this measurement to be on the safe side.

5. Buy the fabric in one length or the lengths of the individual pieces you will need (width of the wall + a few inches). Try to avoid having any other lengths as it means extra seams. If you allow the person at the counter to cut your fabric, make sure they’re reasonably consistent and straight with their cuts. (Some places are lazy and try to get away with otherwise).

6. Buy a spool of upholstery thread that matches your fabric, and a needle for your sewing machine that will handle the thickness of what you’re sewing.

7. Pin the pieces together lengthwise so that you can sew them into one large panel. Match all the sides up on one end, and if the others are a little uneven trim after sewing. Remember that we allocated an inch per seam of fabric total, so each side gets 12 inch (1.3 cm). Sew one straight line over each seam to hold it better than the pins, then a triple straight line, followed by a zig zag stitch. This is a lot of weight to hold. Be careful, go slow, this is a lot of fabric to work with and handle, and a lot of seam to take out if you mess up. It’s pretty simple though. custom mlb stickers

8. Trim the end you didn’t line up so it’s mostly even.

9. Hem the bottom, and both sides. If you overbought fabric for reuse on a larger wall later you can make a huge hem to just fold it back.

10. Buy screws. These need to be heavy-duty enough to hold the fabric and you may need anchors depending on your wall. If you have a choice of colors pick something that will match your fabric. You’ll also need a drill and drill bit, a staple gun, and staples for the gun. If you used lightweight fabric, you may want to pick up some small nuts to sew into the bottom hem to weight it down if needed. You’ll also need some 1*2″ boards, length total to the width of your wall (you’ll probably have to cut one of the pieces but most hardware stores will make a cut for free like this- a handsaw will also do if you do it yourself.)

11. Lay the fabric out so that you can access the entire top edge. Place the boards on top of the fabric at the top, so that you can fold the edge of the fabric over the side and onto the top of the boards. Use the staples and staple gun to secure the fabric, starting at one end and working to the other, and holding it taught (width wise not height.)

12. Hold the boards up at the top of your wall, against the other walls and the ceiling. Have 1-2 people hold the boards, while another person will be doing the securing.

13. Drill a hole through the front of the fabric, the board, and into the wall for the screw. Take the boards down and mount anchors if you’re using them. Put the screws into these holes. You will be able to see the head of the screw on the “nice” side of the wall. If the color matches, or coordinates, nobody will ever notice. If it doesn’t, once you’re finished mounting them take a bit of acrylic paint that matches your fabric and paint the screw heads. (Ok, we lied, you might use $1 worth of paint that never touches your wall).

14. Add those nuts to the bottom hem if the fabric doesn’t hang straight enough. Only use enough to weight it down to hang straight.

15. Tack the fabric to the wall down the sides in a few places if needed. Tiny nails, staples, or thumbtacks will all do the trick. Whatever looks best and will do the least amount of damage to the wall behind it.

16. Enjoy your awesome wall! To take it down gather your friends again and go in reverse, untack, then unscrew it, then take the fabric off the board and roll it up to cart off for whatever. A bit of DAP and touch-up paint will take care of the screw holes.

Tips

  • This is a minimum 2 person job once you get to the hanging part, and it’s best if one of them is familiar and has some experience with tools.
  • If you have a really short ceiling or small room, leaving some extra on the pieces and simply folding it over and putting a hem in that you can take out later will let you reuse your favorite fabric in your next room if it’s larger! Great way to get more out of the money you’re spending!
  • Coupons or sales are your best bet for saving on your fabric. This is something you’re going to keep for a while if you think you can get a better price so it’s worth waiting a little to save some serious cash.
  • Borrow a friend to help out with the hanging, however, it should take less than one afternoon or evening (A couple hours at most).

Warnings

  • Make sure to use anchors and screws that will support the weight of the board and the fabric. No crashing down on people!
  • Fabric does rub against a wall, so when you take it down you may need to deal with that. Magic Erasers works well for this. Just remember to give yourself enough time when you move out to think about this.
  • This will put screw holes in your wall, if your landlord won’t allow this, don’t do it!

Things You’ll Need

  • Fabric

  • Staple Gun

  • Staples

  • Ladder/Step stool to reach your ceiling

  • Screws

  • Anchors (optional, see instructions and ask your local handy friend if you need them)

  • Sewing Machine

  • Upholstery thread

  • 1×2″ boards

  • Tape measure

  • pencil

  • Scissors

  • Sewing pins

  • Drill

  • Drill bit for screw holes (size depends on screws)

  • Acrylic Paint that matches or coordinates fabric, brush. (This will NOT go on your wall).

How to Paint an Interior Wall

Painting a room is one of the easiest, and least expensive ways to freshen up or completely change the look of a room. Interior painting can be a simple and cost-effective do-it-yourself project, however proper preparation of your paint surfaces is important. Priming is crucial if you want a professional finish, since painting without priming can lead to an uneven appearance as well as cracking and peeling. When it comes time to paint, following some simple strategies will help to ensure that your wall looks as polished as possible. custom mlb stickers

Part 1. Setting Up Your Paint Surfaces and Materials

1. Protect your floor and furniture. Before you start painting, you will need to cover your floor with a tarp and then move and/or cover any furniture or other valuables in the room. You can move your furniture to the center of the room and place a tarp or canvas cloth under the wall that you will be painting. custom NHL decals stickers

  • Place your painting materials on the tarp and keep them there at all times. Do not put brushes, paint buckets, or paint trays on your bare floors or on other bare surfaces.

2. Apply painter’s tape to the edges. Painting in a straight line can be difficult, so if this is your first time painting, then you will probably need to apply painter’s tape to the edges of your walls and any molding or fixtures. Apply the painter’s tape so that it is even with the edges of the walls, molding, and fixtures.

  • Keep in mind that you do not need to press hard on the tape when you apply it. Using a bit of gentle pressure will be enough to keep it in place.

3. Mix your primer and paint. Before you use your primer or paint, take a moment to mix them well with a mixing stick. This will help to ensure that the pigments in the primer and paint are evenly distributed.

  • You may also consider tinting your primer by adding a small amount of your paint to your primer and mixing them together well. This may help to ensure that the color looks how it should. This may be especially helpful for darker or brighter colors.

4. Prep your walls. A smooth even surface will make it easier to achieve professional quality results, so take the time to check your wall for imperfections and fix them up before you get started. For example, you can.

  • Patch cracks or holes using patching compound for plaster walls and joint compound for drywall surfaces Apply the compound with a putty knife and allow it to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Sand patched and/or rough surfaces smooth using 120-grit sandpaper. Vacuum or wipe away dust when you are done.
Part 2. Priming the Wall

1. Pour primer into the paint tray. Do not overfill the tray to the point that the angled part of the tray with ridges is covered with primer. You will only need an inch or two or primer in the tray.

  • You can use a garbage bag to line the tray so that you do not need to use multiple trays.
  • Be sure to pour the primer into your tray over the tarp or you may drip primer onto your floors.

2. Line the outer edges of your walls with primer. Dip your paintbrush in the primer bucket and then begin painting a straight line along the outer edge of one side of your wall. Paint along the edges in small sections and go slowly.

  • Try to make the line as straight and even as possible. You may need to go over the line a couple of times to ensure that the primer is even.
  • Using your paintbrush, try to cover about three to four inches of the outer edge of the wall with primer. This will make it easier to cover the rest of the wall with primer.
  • You will need a stepladder to reach the edges along the top parts of your wall. Make sure that the step ladder is sturdy and consider asking someone to spot you.

3. Coat the roller in primer. Place the paint roller into the primer and roll the roller back and forth a few times. The roller should be coated evenly with a thick layer of primer, but not dripping primer when you pick it up.

  • Consider using a roller with an extension rather than a step ladder for this part. A roller with an extension is safer and it will also make your job a bit easier.

4. Apply primer in a large “W” shape. When you are ready to begin covering the wall with primer, take your roller and apply primer in a large “W” shape. Then, begin using smooth up and down motions to filling the area around the “W.” Keep painting until the area is completely covered with primer.

  • Repeat the process on another section. Keep applying your primer in a “W” shape and filling in the areas around the “W” shapes until you have applied primer to the entire wall or room. Work on one portion of the wall at a time to ensure the best coverage.
  • Do not apply too much pressure when you apply the primer. Pressing hard on the roller may result in primer running down your wall and this can leave lines.

5. Allow the primer to dry for one day. Before you start to apply your paint, you will need to let the primer dry completely. Leaving it to dry for about one day is a safe amount of time. However, if the primer still seems wet after one day, give it another day.

Part 3. Painting the Wall

1. Pour your paint into the tray. When you are ready to begin painting the walls, change your garbage bag in the tray or get a new tray. Then, pour about one to two inches of paint into your tray.

  • Use your paintbrush to wipe off any excess paint that runs down the sides and into the rim of the paint bucket.

2. Begin lining the edges of the wall. When you are ready to begin painting, dip your paintbrush into the paint. It should be well-coated in paint, but not dripping. When you are ready, start painting along the edges of your walls and fixtures. Try to create straight even lines.

  • Keep in mind that you may need to go over the paint a few times to ensure that it is even. Take your time and do one small area at a time.
  • Remember that you can always apply painter’s tape to the fixtures and edges if you are worried about not being able to paint in a straight line.
  • Continue to line the edges and fixtures until they are all covered in an even layer of paint.

3. Apply paint in a “W” shape. When you have finished painting around the edges and fixtures, you can start to fill in the center of your walls. Start by dipping your roller in the paint and covering it evenly as you did with the primer. Your roller should be covered in an even layer of paint, but it should not be dripping with paint.

  • When you are ready, press the roller against the wall and apply gentle pressure. Maintain this level of pressure and create a large “W” shape. Then, go over the “W” in an even up and down fashion until you have filled in the area.
  • Do not lift the roller until you finish covering the area.
  • Continue to create large “W” shapes and fill them in until you have covered the entire wall in an even layer of paint.

4. Allow the paint to dry. The paint will need at least one day to dry, so leave it be. Do not try to replace pictures, furniture, or other items until the paint is totally dry. You may also want to block entrance to the room to ensure that no small children or pets can come into the room and touch the walls.

  • If the room is not well ventilated, then placing a fan in the room and cracking a window will help to keep the air circulating and help the paint to dry faster.

Tips

  • Always use the recommended number of coats and allow the recommended amount of drying time between coats.
  • For best results when painting with colors, test the paint color on a small area of the wall during the day to see how the color will look before painting the entire room.
  • Latex primer is the best choice for interior surfaces, such as drywall. It dries faster than oil or shellac primers and it is also more durable.
  • Use one paint tray for each color, or buy disposable plastic paint tray liners and use a different one for each color.

Things You’ll Need

  • Plastic sheet or tarp

  • Bucket

  • Blue painter’s tape (do not use masking tape)

  • Patching or joint compound, if needed to repair cracks or holds

  • 120 grit sandpaper

  • Primer

  • Paint

  • Paint tray

  • Paint roller

  • 1 to 2 inch (2.54 cm to 5.08 cm) angled paintbrush

  • Ladder

How to Decorate an Entire Wall Without Paint

Are you stuck somewhere you aren’t allowed to paint the walls? Do you not want to deal with the time and the mess? Do you want something that is too complicated to paint or too dark to paint over when you move? This tutorial will give you the guidelines to decorate your entire wall using fabric instead of paint or wallpaper!custom NHL decals stickers

1. Find out exactly how far it is from the ceiling to the floor of the wall you want to cover, and how wide side to side. The inch measurement here will likely be close but not exactly what the room is measured at on your floor plan. Write this information down to use later.

2. Browse your local fabric stores or online and find a pattern of fabric that you like. Upholstery weight fabric is good for this project, although lighter fabric could possibly work. Don’t pick something too heavy, faux fur or leather aside from being insanely expensive are likely too heavy for this project.

3. Remember that while this is easier to put up than paint, it’s more expensive and you won’t be changing it very often. Be choosy, pick something you know; you will like for a while! All rules about good taste, tackiness, and matching your decoration apply here.

4. Figure out how wide the fabric is. Wider is better in this case so if you are torn between two designs, choose the wider one. Now, figure out how many “widths” of fabric it will take to add up to the height of your wall plus 2 inches (5.1 cm) at the top, 2 inches (5.1 cm) at the bottom, and an inch for every seam that will have to be sewn. For 2 widths- 5 inches (12.7 cm). For 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm). The width of your wall * how many widths you just calculated will be the length of fabric you will need. If you are trying to match a pattern or stripes so they line up, you will need extra (how much you may want to ask a sewing friend for help if you can’t figure out yourself – it will vary depending on the pattern in your fabric). Add about 12 inches (30.5 cm) to this measurement to be on the safe side.

5. Buy the fabric in one length or the lengths of the individual pieces you will need (width of the wall + a few inches). Try to avoid having any other lengths as it means extra seams. If you allow the person at the counter to cut your fabric, make sure they’re reasonably consistent and straight with their cuts. (Some places are lazy and try to get away with otherwise).custom mlb stickers

6. Buy a spool of upholstery thread that matches your fabric, and a needle for your sewing machine that will handle the thickness of what you’re sewing.

7. Pin the pieces together lengthwise so that you can sew them into one large panel. Match all the sides up on one end, and if the others are a little uneven trim after sewing. Remember that we allocated an inch per seam of fabric total, so each side gets 12 inch (1.3 cm). Sew one straight line over each seam to hold it better than the pins, then a triple straight line, followed by a zig zag stitch. This is a lot of weight to hold. Be careful, go slow, this is a lot of fabric to work with and handle, and a lot of seam to take out if you mess up. It’s pretty simple though.

8. Trim the end you didn’t line up so it’s mostly even.

9. Hem the bottom, and both sides. If you overbought fabric for reuse on a larger wall later you can make a huge hem to just fold it back.

10. Buy screws. These need to be heavy-duty enough to hold the fabric and you may need anchors depending on your wall. If you have a choice of colors pick something that will match your fabric. You’ll also need a drill and drill bit, a staple gun, and staples for the gun. If you used lightweight fabric, you may want to pick up some small nuts to sew into the bottom hem to weight it down if needed. You’ll also need some 1*2″ boards, length total to the width of your wall (you’ll probably have to cut one of the pieces but most hardware stores will make a cut for free like this- a handsaw will also do if you do it yourself.)

11. Lay the fabric out so that you can access the entire top edge. Place the boards on top of the fabric at the top, so that you can fold the edge of the fabric over the side and onto the top of the boards. Use the staples and staple gun to secure the fabric, starting at one end and working to the other, and holding it taught (width wise not height.)

12. Hold the boards up at the top of your wall, against the other walls and the ceiling. Have 1-2 people hold the boards, while another person will be doing the securing.

13. Drill a hole through the front of the fabric, the board, and into the wall for the screw. Take the boards down and mount anchors if you’re using them. Put the screws into these holes. You will be able to see the head of the screw on the “nice” side of the wall. If the color matches, or coordinates, nobody will ever notice. If it doesn’t, once you’re finished mounting them take a bit of acrylic paint that matches your fabric and paint the screw heads. (Ok, we lied, you might use $1 worth of paint that never touches your wall).

14. Add those nuts to the bottom hem if the fabric doesn’t hang straight enough. Only use enough to weight it down to hang straight.

15. Tack the fabric to the wall down the sides in a few places if needed. Tiny nails, staples, or thumbtacks will all do the trick. Whatever looks best and will do the least amount of damage to the wall behind it.

16. Enjoy your awesome wall! To take it down gather your friends again and go in reverse, untack, then unscrew it, then take the fabric off the board and roll it up to cart off for whatever. A bit of DAP and touch-up paint will take care of the screw holes.

Tips

  • This is a minimum 2 person job once you get to the hanging part, and it’s best if one of them is familiar and has some experience with tools.
  • If you have a really short ceiling or small room, leaving some extra on the pieces and simply folding it over and putting a hem in that you can take out later will let you reuse your favorite fabric in your next room if it’s larger! Great way to get more out of the money you’re spending!
  • Coupons or sales are your best bet for saving on your fabric. This is something you’re going to keep for a while if you think you can get a better price so it’s worth waiting a little to save some serious cash.
  • Borrow a friend to help out with the hanging, however, it should take less than one afternoon or evening (A couple hours at most).

Warnings

  • Make sure to use anchors and screws that will support the weight of the board and the fabric. No crashing down on people!
  • Fabric does rub against a wall, so when you take it down you may need to deal with that. Magic Erasers works well for this. Just remember to give yourself enough time when you move out to think about this.
  • This will put screw holes in your wall, if your landlord won’t allow this, don’t do it!

Things You’ll Need

  • Fabric

  • Staple Gun

  • Staples

  • Ladder/Step stool to reach your ceiling

  • Screws

  • Anchors (optional, see instructions and ask your local handy friend if you need them)

  • Sewing Machine

  • Upholstery thread

  • 1×2″ boards

  • Tape measure

  • pencil

  • Scissors

  • Sewing pins

  • Drill

  • Drill bit for screw holes (size depends on screws)

  • Acrylic Paint that matches or coordinates fabric, brush. (This will NOT go on your wall).

How to Decorate Your Graduation Cap

Graduation day is a reason to be excited. Since it happens only once or twice in a lifetime, add some excitement by turning your grad cap into a work of original art. Involve your friends and make it a fun, spirit-raising craft night.

Method 1. Before Decorating the Cap

1. Always make sure you are allowed to decorate. You don’t want to spend hours slaving away over your cap only to find out you aren’t allowed to wear it. Ask a teacher or school counselor you trust to make sure you aren’t breaking any rules.

2. Have a plan. Before you decorate, sit down and think about not only the message you wish to portray, but the decorating scheme as well. This will prevent your cap from looking like a hot mess. Get some colored pencils and brainstorm on scrap paper.

  • Involve your friends to make this a fun group night. Have everyone bring over decorating supplies, make some snacks, and brainstorm together. Decorating together will also allow your group to apply a theme while keeping your hats individual. A theme will work especially well if you’re on a sports team or in a club together. iron on transfers for t shirts

3. Gather up your supplies. There’s nothing worse than starting a craft project and realizing you’re missing components to it. By applying a plan, you can make a list of materials and gather them up before getting started.

Method 2. Adding some Bling

1. Use a fabric pen to write out a message. Fabric pens are exactly what they sound like: Pens that can be safely and effectively used on fabric. They come in any color imaginable and have special features such as metallics, glitter or opaque. Fabric pens are used similarly to regular pens, with the exception being that you squeeze while you move the pen to release the color.

  • Use caution when working with glue. If a fabric pen gets in your eye or is accidentally deposited onto skin, immediately use a water rinse to remove it.

2. Apply crystals with a glue gun. A glue gun is a practical way to neatly add on rhinestones. To apply, lay your rhinestones upside down on a piece of paper towel or cardboard. Squeeze a small amount of glue onto the back of the rhinestone. Count to three so the glue becomes tacky, and using tweezers, gently pick the rhinestone up and push into your desired spot on your cap.

  • Rhinestones and a glue gun can be picked up at most dollar or craft stores. They come in a huge assortment of sizes and colors, so get creative.
  • If you don’t have a steady enough hand for applying rhinestones, invest in a pre-made embellishment. These will often have several rhinestones in the shape of words or pictures with one, solid, tacky back, so they can be applied all together.

3. Glue glitter paper onto the base of your hat. Glitter paper is available at most craft stores and can be trimmed to fit the base of your hat. After trimming, apply glue with the glue gun or glue stick to the edges of your paper. Line up the edges with your hat and gently but firmly apply the paper to the top of your hat.

  • Not a fan of the glitter paper? This trick would work with any paper, including newspaper, wrapping paper, or maps.
Method 3. Stencilling your Grad Cap

1. Make your own stencil. To make your own stencil, draw out your design or lettering on a simple piece of printer paper. After laying down a protective top to your table, such as cardboard, lay the printer paper right side up. Use an exacto knife to slowly and carefully cut out your design. Once satisfied with your cut job, voila! Your stencil is ready to go.

  • Many pre-made stencils are available at your local dollar store. This allows you to skip both the drawing and cutting of your stencil. Another option is to print your desired image directly onto your paper, so it only needs be cut.
  • Up your stencil game by laminating your paper before cutting. This allows your stencil to have a smoother edge and prevents bleeding into the rest of your cap after painting.

2. Stick the stencil onto your grad cap. Lie up where you want your stencil to be placed and play with different locations. Once you’ve decided on the spot, tape the stencil down taut against your cap. The tape will prevent the stencil from shifting while you paint.

3. Get painting. Using a smaller paintbrush for more control, gently paint within your stencil. For a precise edging, hold down the stencil firmly to the cap while painting the edges. Be careful to not overdo it, as any excess paint runs the risk of bleeding.

  • If you can, use fabric paint. Specifically formulated for fabric, fabric paint will age with grace. If you don’t have the option of this, stick with simple acrylic from the dollar store.
  • Add some school spirit to your hat by stenciling in your school’s logo or colors.This can be a simple but effective way to add excitement for your peers and teachers during your drawn out, boring grad ceremony.

4. Wait for your paint to dry and remove the stencil. It is better to be cautious and wait overnight for your paint to dry. Waiting longer will mean your paint is solidified and the stencil will pull away cleanly. Once you are confident the paint is solid, you can lift the tape and gently pull the stencil away. Waiting will also ensure any wet paint on the stencil does not rub off onto your hands or the rest of your cap.

Tips

  • Give yourself plenty of time to design and finish your cap. Glue running down the back of your neck during the ceremony doesn’t speak well of your time management skills.
  • Confer with friends before beginning your design to avoid duplicating each other’s ideas. Each cap should be a reflection of the individual who wears it. Even caps decorated to reflect a club, sorority or fraternity should stand independently amongst the crowd.
  • Don’t use the advertising space atop your graduation cap as an opportunity to ding your Alma Mater. Even if high school doesn’t represent your best years, fake a little school pride, if only on graduation day.

Warnings

  • Use a low-temperature hot-glue gun loaded with low-temperature glue sticks to avoid melting holes in the fabric of your graduation cap.
  • Prepare to shock one or two members of your graduation audience who haven’t yet heard about customized graduation caps. Grandparents come to mind.
  • Practice your design and do a dry run of the arrangement before permanently affixing anything to the only graduation cap you have.

Things You’ll Need

  • Graduation cap

  • Hot-glue gun

  • Embellishments — sequins, rhinestones, glitter, gems

  • Fabric paint

  • Printer

  • Spray fabric adhesive

  • Badges, pins and team souvenirs

  • Stencils

  • Stencil Paint

  • Tracing paper

  • Celebrity photos, fraternity/sorority souvenirs, school logo, etc.

How to Remove Emblems From Cars

Every car comes off of the dealership lot with emblems. Most car emblems custom NHL decals stickers consist of the make, model, trim level, and possibly the dealership’s logo. Older cars had emblems stuck on through holes in the sheet metal, but today most emblems are attached using a strong adhesive that is safe for paint. To safely remove car emblems you’ll need to do more than pull them off of the vehicle. Learn how to remove emblems from cars to get a smooth, clean look.

1. Heat the emblem using a blow-dryer or a heat gun. Direct the heat at the emblem, and hold the dryer several inches from the surface of the car. Move the dryer around, and aim at different areas of the emblem so the heat doesn’t sit in 1 spot for longer than a few seconds at a time.

2. Pry the emblem away from the car’s surface with a plastic putty knife. Slide the putty knife behind a corner of the emblem, and begin to pry it off. Slide the putty knife further behind the emblem until the emblem is scraped off completely. This can be done while heating the emblem or immediately after heating it. If the emblem doesn’t move, heat it more and try again.

3. Pull the emblem off of the car, and let the adhesive cool. Check the adhesive and the surface of the car until you can place your hand on it. Pull larger lumps of adhesive off of the surface with your fingers.

4. Roll your hand and fingers over the remaining adhesive to loosen it from the car’s surface. Roll your fingers across the adhesive, and use firm pressure to cause the adhesive to bead up and come off of the car. This won’t remove all of the adhesive, but most of it can be removed this way.

5. Use adhesive remover and a cotton towel to remove the remaining adhesive from the surface of the car.custom mlb stickers Wipe the adhesive remover on an area that can’t be easily seen to make sure it is safe to use on painted surfaces. If it is safe to use, pour the remover onto a towel, and rub it vigorously across the adhesive until it is completely gone.

6. Finished.

Tips

  • Place a towel between the putty knife and the surface of the car to avoid scratching the paint.
  • Blow-dryers are safer to use than heat guns, since heat guns get very hot very quickly.
  • A piece of fishing line works better than putty knife. Slide it back and forth behind the badge after heating badge to release the adhesive.

Warnings

  • Make sure to move the blow-dryer or heat gun around constantly. Too much direct heat at 1 time can damage the car’s paint.
  • Don’t pull the emblem off of the car before the adhesive is heated. Pulling the emblem off before it is heated cause the adhesive to damage the paint.

Things You’ll Need

  • Blow-dryer or heat gun

  • Putty knife

  • Adhesive remover

  • Cotton towel

What can glow in the dark heat transfer stickers do for diyers?

Glow in the dark heat transfer stickers are made of PET. And how to use the glow in the dark heat transfer materials?

1. Place the transfer on the correct position

2. Place a release paper on top of it to cover the fabric from heat

3. Apply heat for 18-20 seconds using medium pressure

4. Let the motif cool down before peeling off the transfer film

Recommended wash care:

– Machine Wash, Cold (initial water temperature should not exceed 30C or 65 to 85F)

– Tumble Dry, Normal, Low Heat (A machine dryer may be regularly used at a maximum of Low Heat setting)

– Do not Iron

– Do not Bleach

– Do not Dryclean

glow in the dark sticker

When you need only a glow in the dark sticker of your own personalized ideas, just order from iron on stickers retailers online, they will make your idea into iron on stickers, all you need is home iron to transfer the customized images on garments.

What is Opaque Printable Heat Transfer Material?

Quality transfers on a variety of dark fabrics.

Opaque has amazing stretch and rebound and will not crack or peel. The patented STX2™ adhesive can be applied to almost anything, including performance apparel, bags, jackets, and more.

Recommended fabrics: cotton, polyester, Lycra®/spandex

Care Instructions

Machine wash using mild detergent. Do not use bleach. Dry at a normal dryer setting on household machines. Do not dry clean.

Cutting Notes

You should always test cut prior to any production run.

Accessories Required

EZ Weeder™ or Tweezers, CAD-COLOR® Solutions® Mask

Application At A Glance

Time 5 seconds, peel warm, cover and press 5 seconds.

Temperature 305°F/152°C

Pressure Firm

Peel Warm

Forwarded From IronOnSticker.com